You’ve probably heard of Louis Cartier or Jeanne Toussaint. You may have even heard of Pierre and Jacques Cartier. These three people, and their jewelry, are the stars of the Cartier story. But what is their history? What do they mean to the world of fine jewelry? And how did they become so famous? This article will give you an overview of the history of these famous jewelry makers.
Louis Cartier
A History of Fine Jewelry begins in 1847 with the founding of the House of Cartier in Paris. Founded by Louis-Francois Cartier, the company soon became the supplier of choice for royalty, nobility, and millions of people. Louis-Francois’ son, Alfred, took over the business in 1874 and began repairing and improving the company’s products. In the late 1800s, the company expanded internationally and opened its first Paris boutique on rue de la Paix.
The company’s vision of jewelry as a service was innovative and aimed at an entirely new clientele. Louis Cartier’s innovative vision inspired his employees to study the jewelry market and use platinum, a metal that few other workshops used. As a result, platinum imposed itself on the fashion industry, inspiring the creation of fine jewelry that continues to inspire collectors and fashionistas. However, while the company’s business model remained consistent, some transformations were inevitable.
The company’s success and growth was made possible by the work of the founder and his associates, including Jeanne Toussaint, who was a director of fine jewelry for most of the 20th century. Jeanne Toussaint’s enthusiasm for the brand led her to decorate her apartment with panther skins. As a result, the panther brooch became a signature creation of Cartier, worn by many famous people including Wallis Simpson, the American socialite who married King Edward VII.
Jeanne Toussaint
Among the many defining features of Cartier’s history is its panther icon. In honor of its most famous designer, the French jewelry house has created a new film series that pays tribute to the legendary couturier. The first installment, L’Odysee de Cartier: The Digital Series, highlights the designer’s life and work. The panther’s full fur coat earned her the nickname “panther” in Paris.
As the director of Fine Jewelry at Cartier, Toussaint was inspired by the designs of exotic animals. Inspired by the lions, tigers, and leopards of ancient Greece, she created an exclusive line of jewelry featuring exotic animals. In fact, Toussaint became so obsessed with panthers that she renamed her line after them.
A true woman can be a creative genius. With the help of a seasoned jeweler, Toussaint forged a new path for the fashion industry. She created a new style of high jewelry, characterized by striking realism and flexibility. The panther became a symbol of Cartier and Toussaint rose to the position of Creative Director.
Jacques Cartier
The ancestors of Jacques Cartier have been around for a long time. His brothers, Louis and Pierre, focused on the business side of things while Jacques took on the creative side. He was a renowned connoisseur of gemstones, a highly skilled designer, and a brilliant salesman. He is credited with inventing many fine pieces of jewelry, and his name remains synonymous with quality and luxury.
During the Napoleonic Wars, Cartier fought for France against Napoleon. He served in the naval fleet and was imprisoned in a prison hulk in Portsmouth. He returned to Paris penniless in 1815 and married a washerwoman. His younger brother Louis-Francois remained in Paris and worked as an apprentice at a jewelry workshop. The whip was one of the most important tools in a jewelry workshop. Louis-Francois eventually bought his boss’s workshop and began to develop the company.
During the early years of the House, Jacques Cartier’s designs were largely inspired by exotic landscapes and the new modernist movement fueled by the Cubist painters. His obsession with big cats led to the panther’s symbolization. The brand’s flamboyant ‘Big Cat’ jewels were draped over legendary collectors. As a result, they became icons of the Cartier brand.
Pierre Cartier
The history of the Cartier family starts in the 17th century with Louis and his brother Jacques who opened the first boutique in Paris. The brothers were ambitious and devoted to their business. In 1870, they were killed in an automobile accident, leaving only Pierre to continue the family business. The Cartier brothers were the first to use synthetic materials, such as gold and silver, in their designs. In fact, the name “Cartier” is still synonymous with fine jewelry.
The first jewelry shop opened in Paris, France, where Louis-Francois Cartier was an apprentice to Adolphe Picard. In 1847, he purchased the workshop of the famous jewelry maker. After a few years, he changed the way the jewelry business operated. He also benefited from the socialist revolution in France in 1870. Cartier purchased the jewelry that his clients sold. Some of these customers would come back to the shop and sell their family jewels to Cartier.
In 1912, Louis-Francois Cartier purchased a Fifth Avenue townhouse for $100 and a string of pearls. This property became the Cartier headquarters in New York. The Cartier company has continued to grow worldwide and attracted royalty. Stars such as Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, and Clark Gable have purchased Cartier jewelry. This makes the Cartier name synonymous with the highest quality jewelry.
Jeanne Toussaint’s “Rolling Ring”
The ‘Rolling Ring’ is a striking piece of jewelry created by French fashion designer Jeanne Toussaint, who was nicknamed La Panthere. Her work was influenced by the dark side of the feminine psyche, and she was often referred to as the Coco Chanel of jewelry. Toussaint was a fan of the panther, and her passion for this animal led her to design many pieces in its likeness.
In 1924, Cartier created its first collection of jewelry, which has become known as the ‘Rolling Ring’. Jean Cocteau, a French filmmaker and renowned fashion editor, helped Louis Cartier develop the design and make it popular among Parisian society. The ‘Rolling Ring’ continues to be produced today. In addition to ‘The Rolling Ring’, the ‘Trinity Ring’ includes other pieces of jewelry.
Cartier’s friendship with Faberge
The early years of Cartier’s career were spent as a retailer of objects d’art, primarily Russian art, and fine antiques. But the brand began expanding internationally, and it is believed that the founder of the company, Alfred Cartier, became friendly with the Russian artist Carl Faberge. The two men also developed a close relationship, and the French jeweler eventually commissioned work from the Faberge workshops for its Parisian shop.
Today, the brand is owned by Faberge Limited. In May 2012, Faberge opened its own boutique in New York’s Madison Avenue. The two companies continued to collaborate on innovative designs, and Faberge commissioned Cartier to design its new collection. The company recently announced plans to create an entire ad campaign for the brand, featuring the collection of gems and jewellery. It will be Faberge’s first global campaign to promote itself.
The catalogue raisonné details more than one hundred of the company’s works. It also includes numerous essays by authors like Geza von Habsburg, Daniel L. Hodges, Christel L. McCanless, Kieran McCarthy, and Ulla Tillander-Godenhielm. The book is accompanied by a poster-size book with illustrations. The catalogue raisonne features over one hundred objects and more than one thousand illustrations.
Cartier’s expansion overseas
After opening its first India boutique in Delhi’s Emporio mall three years ago, French luxury brand Cartier plans to extend its distribution in other major cities slowly. However, Ferla has been tight-lipped about the plans for the near future. Ferla is betting that the Travel with Style event will attract attention and help the brand build a strong brand in the country. While Ferla is focused on ensuring the success of the travel with style event, he says he is working to reinforce the brand’s distribution in major Indian cities.
Louis Alfred’s fame spread beyond Paris as his sons entered the jewelry business. Jacques-Theodule and Pierre-Camille were the first to open branches in London and New York. Their father had been providing jewelery for the French aristocracy for many years, and they both dreamed of a global business empire. In 1898, Queen Alexandra of England commissioned 27 diamond tiaras for King Edward VII. This move gave Cartier a royal warrant as a supplier to the Royal Court of England.
Alfred Cartier’s father was aiming to pass on the family business to his son. The younger Alfred was more business-oriented than his father, and was focused on growth. Despite the challenges faced by the company during the 1990s, Perrin’s business acumen enabled him to move the company into the realm of the royal houses of Europe and beyond. The company’s continued growth was largely attributed to its strong position in the luxury goods market.